Its never been a better time to own a Geo metro. Fuel prices are down for unleaded and propane is chasing right behind at half the cost.
Its simply amazing and what we have all been waiting for. I know its not permanent but for the next few months we get to ride out this ocean of low cost domestic fuel. As OPEC manipulates the cost world wide to drive there competition out of business by making fuel prices to low by not slowing their volume and allowing the world market to be saturated in excessive crude. Check out prices of oil barrels from OPEC and look at the yearly graphs (OPEC).
History shows that every time a world power has manipulated the cost of foreign oil it has virtually doubled the price per barrel from the date they started manipulating. This started at $105 to $110 a barrel so it has a lot of room to get blown through the roof. If you don't own oil buy it now as it is cheap and is going to be driven to a new outlandish price when OPEC is ready and has destroyed most or all of its competition.
The scary thing is they are driving the market lower and still making more profits than ever. This allows them to truly at some point set the barrel very low quickly and kill other oil companies to the point they cant ever get back in the business.
I expect a new order when OPEC slows its production and all the other smaller oil companies have hung up there hats including some governments like Brazil that tried to cut OPEC out.
I don't think they will destroy world markets with $8 a gallon gas but I do think they liked the price close to $3/$4 a gallon at the USA pumps. I don't believe they will shock the market all at once but bring the cost up a bit slower than they lowered it.
I truly believe were about to experience a couple decades of price control from OPEC that runs fuel $3 to $4 gal .
For those of you that made the switch to dual fuel and now are buying propane as it drops to record lows your simply buying fuel as if it were back in the 70's and 80's.
I know I'm enjoying it more than ever right now as my monthly fuel bill has never been lower. In fact I'm building a propane tank mount that allows 20 or 30 gallons of fuel. I'm getting so use to not driving to the gas station and or buying fuel any more that the 10 gallon tanks of propane just seem to small. I'll now have 1350 to 1750 miles of range. It seemed at first to be way to over kill but now after having the option I cant imagine not having it. Were almost a $50 bill gets you almost 1500 miles.
Its just amazing and I just pushed passed 12k miles on the same oil change and my oil sample came back that it was not ready to be changed yet. If I was paying $40 for an oil change that alone has just saved me $160.00 and it looks like were going to be able to go a couple more at least. The oil still looks new its just the best thing ever. I cant imagine if you were using a super high quality oil synthetic you may never need a oil change? I'm looking into buy a oil centrifuge designed to clean oil on semi trucks to add in but the lab that tests the oil says its not necessary and most likely a filter change every other oil change should be fine. If i can save $400 or more a year on oil changes in 30k miles so be it. That is a huge chunk of my propane bill!!!!! FREE FUEL I LOVE IT!
Use this time Geo geeks to spend that saved fuel money on upgrades for when the price goes back up. The shop has never been busier and I'm working on a new better MPG engine. A engine built just for commuting with virtually nothing in the car but you a tall ratio transmission and over size tires.
I am loving driving around for almost free again! If your not driving a Geo get one and if your geo is not getting its best gas mileage get it fixed so you can reap these rewards.
The first factory light weight crank shaft that has been full circle machined available to the general GEO METRO public. Lets face it there is simply no crank choice available for a G10 engine. I looked at building a full CNC billet crank and we now have the ability to manufacture the part. There were more upsides to just making the factory crank better.
First off a full billet crank at our low demand numbers estimated out to be worth about $1500.00 each. I told myself I wouldn't even spend that much money so why would any one else.
I would right to lathe with 6 cranks and started in with the basics. Knife edging, counter weight removal, cross drill weight dropping and even did a heavier crank by welding on weights just to make sure some thing odd on a 3 cylinder didn't get past the dyno. Heavier does nothing good by the way.
After running all 6 cranks I decided to follow the direction of the Atlantic open wheel Indy race teams. They have crank weight rule and they have to use a stock crank. there allowed to go .020 on the bearings I believe. The crank has to weigh 26 lbs. It just helps keep the money out of the part because you cant go to titanium or run a super light weight crank. Plus a stock crank is only so strong so it helps keep the over all HP all fairly even. They could build more power but then they would fail the stock size bearings is the idea.
We have no rules or limits except common sense. Even in turbo land 100 hp is way up there so 75 hp is fairly realistic. That's only 25 hp on each cylinder under boost if its turbo charged. Its not even very much load at full power is my point. So we can do what ever we can afford to the crank and virtually never see a geo bottom end go away. Which never happens by the way.
To keep the cost down I modeled the new crank shaft off of the factory crank. Starting with this as our core to build takes out a few hundred dollars of billet we would have ad to turn into chips to get a crank shape out of. Next I chucked it into the lathe and went with a full circle lightening job. The crank is centered and zero'd in on the lathe and the rod end of the crank arm is machined to the bearings surface. This removes about 9 mm of material off the crank counter weights or the over all diameter of the crank. It also drops about 1lb of weight off the crank which is simply amazing considering the original crank is in the 12 lb range. To remove 1/12 of the reciprocating weight right at the source is amazing. Plus we get the diameter of the shaft down by almost 10 mm which is almost 1/3 more than the INDY car engines when compared.
Between this and light weight fly wheel the only thing better and I recommend this with it is a turbo charger system on propane so you can get the cheap fuel and the high octane. Its like having $15.00 a gallon race fuel for half the price of cheap unleaded fuel.
The crank is cut down to size, de burred and then rebalanced or like I like to say balanced for the first time.
Its that time again of the year for the dreaded no start from no compression to plague some of you Geo owners. This is only a 3 cylinder engine problem with hydraulic lifters.
There are two options for this problem one is the temperature outside has fallen and a few degrees and the oil in the engine has thickened raising the oil pressure at the oil pump because the oil pressure relief valve is sticking or the spring is not holding the correct tension any more.
The other option is its if its not cold related the pressure relief spring has changed tension or the oil relief piston has debris in it causing it to stick.
The fix for any issue is the same remove and replace the oil pump.
Your systems will be the car cranks over and possibly try's to start but maybe just cranks over. it sounds like it is cranking over correctly but then it spins faster than normal and acts more like a broken timing belt. If you were to walk away from the car for 20 minutes in the summer at 70f it will bleed off the excessive oil pressure and volume in the lifters and you can repeat the process over and over. if its cold weather related you may have to wait over night or the oil is so cold and thick the problem will be there all the time.
Diagnosing the problem is as easy as cranking it over tell it sounds like it has no compression or its spinning free like a broken timing belt. Simply and quickly remove the spark plugs and check the compression to see its virtually 0 psi.
now to confirm this install a oil pressure gauge and check to see that when the problem exists it has roughly and usually more than 59 psi. make sure this gauge is accurate or you will chase your tail. I will from years of experience tell you oil pressure testing gauges and compression testing gauges are almost always off a bit.
This is a Geo only problem and a 3 cylinder at that issue only. many or lets say almost all no geo techs will and have condemned every single one of these engines when all they needed was a oil pump installed. I cant tell you how many Geo owners in the Midwest and east coast have told me over the years that just thought the 3 cylinders were cold blooded and they just didn't drive them in the winter. Come spring it was the best car ever.
What is happening here is that the oil feed line down the front of the head that feeds the cam and lifters goes directly to the side of the hydraulic lifters bore right at the point it is taking in the oil during normal operation. What your experiencing is this excess volume/pressure being more than can escape around the lifters bored hole which would normally just be leaked out and drained back to the oil pan. Your oil pump with its extra pressure is actually able to pressurize the lifter and force it open which is pushing the valve's open so that they can never close creating 0 zero compression issue. After you walk away from the geo and let it set a while the lifter bleeds off and will seem to have compression on the next start tell the pressure rises high enough to cause this issue to happen again.
I hope this helps.